France 2006, a diary

So here we are in the Perigord, in the South West of France, hanging with my mate Paul, and his son Johnathan, who is out for another 5 or so days before he heads back to England. The region is particularly beautiful, very lush, with large rocky outcrops. The medieval town of Domme sits on one such mountain, with the customary windy roads to get up and down it. The greenness is due to the River Dordogne, which winds slowly through the region. At times it is 100 feet wide, and many of the ancient little towns that have been built over the last few hundred years sit on its banks.

The nearest big town to us is Sarlat, and that too has many medieval buildings, with lots of stone cobbled streets leading through little alleyways to even cuter little squares packed with restaurants and regional produce. Which is largely duck. Every duck product you can imagine populates every menu and tourist shop. Foie Gras, Paté de Foie Gras, Magret de canard, confit de canard: it's everywhere, largely because tourism is also a large part of the region's economic model.

At the time of writing, the tourist season has ended. This has allowed my friend Paul to rent a place quite cheaply, although it does mean that many of the restaurants and bars are shut until March next year, when they re-open for the hordes of British tourists that flock to the region every year. It is little wonder; there is so much to do here; horse riding, canoeing, plus visits to medieval towns, such as Bergerac, Périgueux, Sarlat etc. As if this wasn't enough, there are hundreds of beautiful chateaux in the region, mostly hanging over the edges of cliffs.

Fortunately, I came out last Saturday, so just caught the tail end of the tourist season, which allowed me to try Paul's local restaurant, La Flambée, which is a small, but charming place to get inexpensive three course meal. Better still, we caught the season's last sitting at L'Esplanade, a one starred Michelin restaurant not 300 yards from his house. With a fantastic view, and beautifully presented food, it worked out at around 65 euros per head (£40) for a three course meal with lovely wine. Bon Appetit!

Because we are on holiday (although Paul has grander plans to write a book in his time over here), we have been largely chilling, doing some sight-seeing, but generally getting excited about the next meal. Yesterday, we had Paul's brother Graham and his partner Heather over to lunch, which became a lovely 4 hour boozy affair. Scallops, prawns, local salami sausages, duck terrine, sliced smoked duck breast and salad were all washed down with a Rully, a St Véran and an Alsacien Sylvaner. Yum. As if the view from the terrace in 25 degree heat weren't enough to satisfy us alone.

See some pictures here.

So Far So Good, Johnathan's Diary

My first Ecole du vin (wine school), the first surprise that dad organised for me, was luxurious, a taste of what I can expect of my future visits to Hotels du vin, and there will be more. First night there I went and checked out the gym, it was sweet, I let loose on the punch bag and dreamt of a life of convenient gyms, hotel spa’s and sexy women. I’m a believer in knowing yourself and what you like, and it's no different with wine, but being educated in wine only helps you do this, and after that weekend at the ecole my brain is just so much better at soaking up what’s to know about wine. So, after two nice hotels me and dad finally get to France and out pops the second surprise, we’re staying with Graham (uncle) and Heather, who I don’t often get to see, and its gorgeous, we lap up Heather’s cooking and I dream of what it would be like if I owned the place or one like it somewhere back in England maybe. I had one of the best days out I’ve had in a long time while I was there, we all went canoeing down the Dordogne, even dad came, it was the most beautiful day and I find myself dreaming again, of doing things like that more often and all the things I’m missing out on stuck in Barrow, I think dad really enjoyed that day too.

I can tell by this stage I would happily stay here in France with dad through the winter, but I need to finish my college education and get a bloody job if I don’t want to go insane. It always helps me to put things in perspective staying with my dad and especially now that my dad’s mate Davie Mac has turned up, which was another surprise, he always helps to keep things laid back and interesting. Ok and funny too. Finally, I’ve got to eat at Domme’s Michelin star restaurant twice, and as eating is in my top three things to do in life that’s been another highlight for me. It’s movie night here at Le Rosier every night and I get live the simple life for a while, I’ve got another week of this excruciatingly painful living, so far so good.